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gaines gravy train dog food coupons ๏ปฟdogs are not born with soft mouths, but they can learn to bite softly if taught properly, which means plenty of information and communication from you and from other dogs.

Interacting with other dogs is critical to teaching your puppy bite inhibition. When two dogs play together and one bites too hard, the other one cries and runs away. This behavior helps to teach the biter to play-bite softly.

Normal puppies can and should play-bite continually in social interactions, because biting and mouthing are normal canine behaviors. Puppies and young adolescent dogs have a physical and psychological need to use their mouths. Remember, dogs use their mouths the way humans use their hands.

Soft mouth exercises need to begin as soon as you get your new puppy. Puppy teeth are sharp, but their jaws are underdeveloped so these exercises should not be painful to you. When your puppy is mouthing your hand or fingers, monitor their bite pressure. If your puppy bites too hard, screech “OUCH” very loudly and look at your puppy as if she just ripped your hand off. Then leave the room and ignore your puppy for several minutes.

You need to make a strong impression on your puppy that if she bites too hard, she will end up playing all by herself. Being very social animals, most dogs and puppies will not opt to play by themselves. Be prepared to repeat this exercise over and over again so that a trend emerges…Bite too hard, play by yourself!

This exercise is even more effective if all the people that come into contact with your puppy implement it with one exception. Young children should never teach soft mouth exercises. When you puppy starts to get overexcited and begins to bite too hard, have your children leave the area so you can do the training.

When your puppy is consistently demonstrating better self-control, you can start to monitor even the moderate to light pressure bites. Now, if your puppy is putting her mouth on you with even moderate pressure, screech “OUCH,” leave, and ignore her for a few minutes. Then go back and try again.

Remember, you must give your puppy plenty of outlets for her mouth and jaws. Stuffed Kong toys, frozen wash cloths, chew toys soaked in broth or chicken stock, and tug-of-war games are just a few great ways for your puppy to use her mouth and jaws in an acceptable way. If you say no to one item (your hands or your clothes) you must say yes to another (her toys).

And always manage your puppy’s behavior. If she is biting and mouthing you excessively, this is a clear signal that she is bored and needs to release some energy. A good dose of aerobic exercise should remedy this.

On a final note, never reinforce your puppy’s biting or mouthy behavior. Your attention, be it scruff shaking, grabbing her snout, or smacking her nose is all reinforcement to your puppy and will make the problem worse.

Biting is a normal stage that puppies go through, and when properly managed, never needs to become a big issue down the road.

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gravy train dogs foods nutritional guide ๏ปฟSue and Pete just can't figure it out. Their once housetrained, calm dog has become psychotic. Dear Suzie is now peeing all over the house, cowers and shakes when the phone rings and goes into an absolute panic when the smoke detector (www.firstalert.com) starts tweeting when the battery is getting low.

Sharon's dog Max used to love kids but now growls and lunges when he sees them in the distance.

Fritz the Labrador retriever used to love to play with other dogs. His owner can't figure out why he almost killed at dog at the dog park the last time he was there.

My dog Reggie winces and screams when I throw a ball for him. He cringes when I pour his kibble into his metal food bowl.

Can you guess what these dogs have in common?

Quick fixes are so alluring when you're training your dog. Perhaps you've seen the displays of shock collars and electric fencing systems in your local pet store. Maybe you read a dog training book that suggests that you throw a can of noisy rocks near your dog or spray him with a water to get him to stop jumping up and grabbing things off your counter.

The fact is, when you use scare tactics to attempt to train your dog, you can create problems you may never be able to remedy.

Let's look at dear Suzie, the once-sweet dog who is now acting psychotic. In recent months, her family decided to install an electric fencing system. They followed the training protocol and taught her that the beep of her collar predicted that she'd get shocked if she proceeded across the property line. That made a big impression on Suzie. She only got shocked a couple of times but, now, has learned to stay within the boundaries of the yard. The problem is that other sounds are now reminding her of the beeping sound of the collar: the cell phone, the smoke detector, the buzzer on the dryer that signals the clothes are dry. Suzie no longer feels safe in the yard either. Last week, she was busy sniffing the trail of a neighbor's dog that wandered through her yard (remember, the electronic fencing doesn't keep the other dog out) and didn't notice she was near the shock zone of the fence. As she trotted over to scent mark on the other dog's urine mark, she got a whopping big shock. She no longer feels safe peeing outside.

You can guess what happened in the other scenarios. Fritz the Lab visited the dog park that is run by the lady who sells shock collars as a training device to teach a perfect recall. Dear Fritz had been shocked a whole year ago while playing with a dog at the park while the owner thought he was training him to come. Instead, Fritz associated the pain of the shock with the presence of the other dog. Now he becomes so anxious and aroused when he sees another dog that he's ready to attack and bite to protect himself from another "shock attack."

Sharon was worried that Max might overpower kids when she was walking him on a leash, so she'd tighten the leash and jerk Max into a sit position every time a child approached. Now Max gets nervous and defensive even when he sees a kid in the distance.

Reggie's former owners probably followed the advice of one of their friends and rattled or threw a shake can, a can with a few stones in it, to stop behaviors they didn't like when he was a pup. He still gets anxious and scared by sounds and movements that remind him of the scary can.

Aversive training methods, things that are scary to your dog and attempt to suppress his behavior, can always have fallout that you may never be able to reverse. Not only that, your dog may generalize his fear to other situations that you never imagined. Is it worth it to you to risk making your dog psychotic in your attempts to train him? Commit to positive reward-based training and management and you'll foster a relationship that is built on caring and respect rather than fear and suppression.

Finding a Positive Trainer

Either you can get great advice on positive training methods by devouring the many great training books on the subject (www.dogwise.com), or you can hire a training professional to give you guidance. If you're looking for a trainer who is proven to be experienced and has done continuing education to stay versed in the field, you can check out these links:

For a Victoria Stilwell Positively dog Trainer - Have you seen her great show "it's Me or the dog" (www.positively.com/dog-training/find-a-trainer)

Certified Professional Trainer (www.ccpdt.org/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=40&Itemid=32)

Certified Clicker Trainer (www.karenpryoracademy.com/find-a-trainer)

Remember, you want to work as a partner with your dog. Training him using scary methods may suppress him into doing your will. Training him using positive methods will help him become a cooperative friend!

Beth Duman, CPDT-KA is a Victoria Stilwell Positively Trainer in Michigan. She's one of the core trainers for dog Scouts of America (www.dogscouts.org). Check out her web site at (www.EarthVoices.net). Watch for her training book, The Evolution of Charlie Darwin, to be released in about two months.

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