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online dog trainer certification ๏ปฟDo you want to teach your dog to ‘Sit’/’Stand’/’Down’ when you are 20 feet or further away from your dog?

There is a difference between asking a dog to ‘down’ when you are standing next to it or having it ‘stay’, then walking away, waiting for ten seconds and then walking back to deliver a treat – and accomplishing these same behaviors when you are 20 feet away from your dog and asking them to ‘sit’ if they are standing, ‘stand’ if they are sitting or going into a down position if they are sitting or standing.

Most obedience training cues are given when the owner is next to the dog with the exception of the recall cue. Historically most of the dog training disciplines that use distance commands such as field trials have used shock collars to get the results they want. The premise of this learning is that the dog is told to do something at a distance and if they ignore the cue then the owner/handler applies an electric shock. The dog learns to do the behavior to escape or avoid an unpleasant if not painful stimulus.

There are far more pleasant ways to teach distance obedience behaviors. Last Saturday, at The dogSmith Training Center, in one 10 minute session two German Shepherds being handled by their owners had their dogs sitting and ‘downing’ with no food lures when they were 6 feet away from their dogs. Although the duration of the behavior was very short it did show that with guidance and a systematic approach most pet dog owners can effectively and efficiently teach their pet dogs a high level of distance obedience. The duration can be added later.

The behavior was built one step at a time. As the dogs became familiar with the rules of the game and understood that great reinforcement was available to them for getting “it right” their learning became faster and faster .

When starting this training with a pet dog with the goal of the dog sitting or ‘downing’ or standing from a distance, the first behavior criteria on the ladder must be 97% reliable. The dog must already be able to demonstrate the behavior without a food lure when the owner is standing by their side or in front of them. The behavior should be under the control of both a verbal and physical cue, not the physical cue created by the lure mechanics but the final finished product cue.

Example:

Goal - To have your dog go into a ‘down’ position when you are 20 feet away using a verbal cue ‘down’ or a simple hand signal for ’down’

The first behavior criteria is built on the premise that the dog will already respond to a verbal “down” and a simple hand cue “down” when the owner is in an upright position. This behavior should also have a built in duration of 30 seconds and be on a release cue of “okay”. The owner should not have to lure the dog down with food in their hand or use their entire body as a prompt to motivate the dog into a ‘down’ position. The dog should be comfortable sitting for duration of 30 seconds on an interval schedule of reinforcement no more than every 10 seconds.

Step 1

Take half a step away from the dog and ask the dog to ‘down’ using both the hand signal and the verbal signal.

As soon as the dog goes ‘down’ Click or say ‘Yes’ and step back to the dog and deliver reinforcement. The dog should not have the time to get up and break the behavior. The reinforcement should be delivered to the dog in the ‘down’ position.

Repeat Step 1, 5 times

The dog should be successful on all five occasions. If they are not, then the likelihood is that the initial behavior criterion is not in place. Since the dog will already respond to a verbal “down” and a simple hand cue “down” when the owner is in an upright position the owner should not have to lure the dog down with food in their hand or use their entire body as a prompt. The dog should be comfortable sitting for duration of 30 seconds on an interval schedule of reinforcement no less than every 10 seconds.

Step 2

Take a full step away from the dog and ask the dog to ‘down’ using both the hand signal and the verbal signal.

As soon as the dog goes ‘down’ Click or say ‘Yes’ and step back to the dog and deliver reinforcement. The dog should not have the time to get up and break the behavior. The reinforcement should be delivered to the dog in the ‘down’ position.

Repeat this 5 times

Step 3

Take 2 full steps away from the dog and ask the dog to ‘down’ using both the hand signal and the verbal signal.

As soon as the dog goes down Click or say ‘Yes’ and step back to the dog and deliver reinforcement. The dog should not have the time to get up and break the behavior. The reinforcement should be delivered to the dog in the down position.

Repeat this 5 times. Do not progress from this stage until you have 5 correct behaviors out of 5 attempts. This is the important step and may prove to be the most difficult step to get past. A couple of things may happen.

1. The dog may be confused, you have now moved further away than ever before. This is a new behavior for the dog. The dog may try to get closer to you back into the normal position the dog is in when being asked to ‘down.’

2. At this stage you may have to reintroduce a more exaggerated physical cue to encourage the dog to go ‘down.’ Start off by just bending at the waist and using your hand to help motivate the dog into a ‘down’ position. This prompt can be faded later on.

3. If you have to use a full physical cue, your body bending over and knees bending over to get the dog to drop into the ‘down,’ the dog may pop forward thinking there is food in your hand. Be persistent, the dog will “get it.” Use a happy upbeat voice to encourage the dog into position.

4. If you cannot stop the dog coming towards you then go back and find a middle criteria Such as one and a half steps away from the dog.

When you are comfortably moving back a step at a time, doing sets of five behaviors at each step, you should work on fading all the prompts that you had to reintroduce at Step 3 when you reach a distance from your dog of 6 steps.

You will have to repeat this criterion for each new distance behavior you teach. When you have some solid distance behaviors for ‘sit’/’down’ and ‘stand’ then you can work on having the dog switch between behaviors with you at a distance. Do not expect that if you can have your dog ‘down’ from ten feet reliably that you will then at ten feet be able to put the dog back into a ‘sit’ from a ‘down.’ You will have to reduce your distance from your dog to develop this behavior.

Niki Tudge is the owner and founder of The dogSmith, America’s dog Training, dog Walking and Pet Care Franchise. To find your local dogSmith or learn more about joining the dogSmith visit www.dogSmith.com

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doggy day care jobs ๏ปฟDo you want to teach your dog to ‘Sit’/’Stand’/’Down’ when you are 20 feet or further away from your dog?

There is a difference between asking a dog to ‘down’ when you are standing next to it or having it ‘stay’, then walking away, waiting for ten seconds and then walking back to deliver a treat – and accomplishing these same behaviors when you are 20 feet away from your dog and asking them to ‘sit’ if they are standing, ‘stand’ if they are sitting or going into a down position if they are sitting or standing.

Most obedience training cues are given when the owner is next to the dog with the exception of the recall cue. Historically most of the dog training disciplines that use distance commands such as field trials have used shock collars to get the results they want. The premise of this learning is that the dog is told to do something at a distance and if they ignore the cue then the owner/handler applies an electric shock. The dog learns to do the behavior to escape or avoid an unpleasant if not painful stimulus.

There are far more pleasant ways to teach distance obedience behaviors. Last Saturday, at The dogSmith Training Center, in one 10 minute session two German Shepherds being handled by their owners had their dogs sitting and ‘downing’ with no food lures when they were 6 feet away from their dogs. Although the duration of the behavior was very short it did show that with guidance and a systematic approach most pet dog owners can effectively and efficiently teach their pet dogs a high level of distance obedience. The duration can be added later.

The behavior was built one step at a time. As the dogs became familiar with the rules of the game and understood that great reinforcement was available to them for getting “it right” their learning became faster and faster .

When starting this training with a pet dog with the goal of the dog sitting or ‘downing’ or standing from a distance, the first behavior criteria on the ladder must be 97% reliable. The dog must already be able to demonstrate the behavior without a food lure when the owner is standing by their side or in front of them. The behavior should be under the control of both a verbal and physical cue, not the physical cue created by the lure mechanics but the final finished product cue.

Example:

Goal - To have your dog go into a ‘down’ position when you are 20 feet away using a verbal cue ‘down’ or a simple hand signal for ’down’

The first behavior criteria is built on the premise that the dog will already respond to a verbal “down” and a simple hand cue “down” when the owner is in an upright position. This behavior should also have a built in duration of 30 seconds and be on a release cue of “okay”. The owner should not have to lure the dog down with food in their hand or use their entire body as a prompt to motivate the dog into a ‘down’ position. The dog should be comfortable sitting for duration of 30 seconds on an interval schedule of reinforcement no more than every 10 seconds.

Step 1

Take half a step away from the dog and ask the dog to ‘down’ using both the hand signal and the verbal signal.

As soon as the dog goes ‘down’ Click or say ‘Yes’ and step back to the dog and deliver reinforcement. The dog should not have the time to get up and break the behavior. The reinforcement should be delivered to the dog in the ‘down’ position.

Repeat Step 1, 5 times

The dog should be successful on all five occasions. If they are not, then the likelihood is that the initial behavior criterion is not in place. Since the dog will already respond to a verbal “down” and a simple hand cue “down” when the owner is in an upright position the owner should not have to lure the dog down with food in their hand or use their entire body as a prompt. The dog should be comfortable sitting for duration of 30 seconds on an interval schedule of reinforcement no less than every 10 seconds.

Step 2

Take a full step away from the dog and ask the dog to ‘down’ using both the hand signal and the verbal signal.

As soon as the dog goes ‘down’ Click or say ‘Yes’ and step back to the dog and deliver reinforcement. The dog should not have the time to get up and break the behavior. The reinforcement should be delivered to the dog in the ‘down’ position.

Repeat this 5 times

Step 3

Take 2 full steps away from the dog and ask the dog to ‘down’ using both the hand signal and the verbal signal.

As soon as the dog goes down Click or say ‘Yes’ and step back to the dog and deliver reinforcement. The dog should not have the time to get up and break the behavior. The reinforcement should be delivered to the dog in the down position.

Repeat this 5 times. Do not progress from this stage until you have 5 correct behaviors out of 5 attempts. This is the important step and may prove to be the most difficult step to get past. A couple of things may happen.

1. The dog may be confused, you have now moved further away than ever before. This is a new behavior for the dog. The dog may try to get closer to you back into the normal position the dog is in when being asked to ‘down.’

2. At this stage you may have to reintroduce a more exaggerated physical cue to encourage the dog to go ‘down.’ Start off by just bending at the waist and using your hand to help motivate the dog into a ‘down’ position. This prompt can be faded later on.

3. If you have to use a full physical cue, your body bending over and knees bending over to get the dog to drop into the ‘down,’ the dog may pop forward thinking there is food in your hand. Be persistent, the dog will “get it.” Use a happy upbeat voice to encourage the dog into position.

4. If you cannot stop the dog coming towards you then go back and find a middle criteria Such as one and a half steps away from the dog.

When you are comfortably moving back a step at a time, doing sets of five behaviors at each step, you should work on fading all the prompts that you had to reintroduce at Step 3 when you reach a distance from your dog of 6 steps.

You will have to repeat this criterion for each new distance behavior you teach. When you have some solid distance behaviors for ‘sit’/’down’ and ‘stand’ then you can work on having the dog switch between behaviors with you at a distance. Do not expect that if you can have your dog ‘down’ from ten feet reliably that you will then at ten feet be able to put the dog back into a ‘sit’ from a ‘down.’ You will have to reduce your distance from your dog to develop this behavior.

Niki Tudge is the owner and founder of The dogSmith, America’s dog Training, dog Walking and Pet Care Franchise. To find your local dogSmith or learn more about joining the dogSmith visit www.dogSmith.com

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how to train your dog not to bark while playing sports ๏ปฟRaising Kids in the Ghetto - Close Relationships are the Key

Well, I'm still remembering and reminiscing about the days when my children were little. I'll share a few more stories about raising kids in the ghetto.

We ended up in this run-down neighborhood when we bought a house and fixed it up. It was the nicest place in the entire neighborhood, but it would not sell because no one who could afford to buy it wanted to live there.

It was cold outside and my son was playing in the backyard. He wanted to warm things up a bit. When things heated up a bit too much he came running into the house with this terrified look on his face.

"Mmmmmommy?" I could tell something was wrong. Observant, aren't I?

"What is it?"

"F-f-f-fire! Mm-m-momie!"

"Tell Mommy what happened. You aren't in trouble, just tell me...."

He didn't have to. I looked out the window to see the playhouse engulfed in smoke. I ran out of the house, grabbed the hose, and ran to the rescue. It was only a matter of minutes before everything was under control, but my daughter has been mad at her brother ever since for melting her plastic stove; dishes, play food, and all.

Those are accidents, and I suppose every kid has at least one to tell about. Then, there are things that adults do that are truly stupid. Like the guy who lived across the street from us. He would get drunk and lay in the ditch night after night until the police came out to get him back into the house when someone finally complained of his moaning. And the two gals who lived next door who fought all the time. One day the blond got into her car and tried to run over the redhead. She missed the first time so she took a second and a third try until she succeeded in penning her against the concrete wall with the bumper with no place to run. Then she proceeded to beat her. I was watching out my bedroom window. I was on hold with the police station...again.

I thought things couldn't get any worse. Then, another set of renters moved in after the "ladies" were evicted. This family had some bad dogs that were so vicious I couldn't let my kids play in our own front yard. The dogs tore everyone's trash out and strew it all over our yard; trash that included the front leg of some animal, probably a deer since it was hunting season. I called the landlord and the police. I was told there was nothing that could be done unless I could get the dogs into captivity on my property. My son's bb gun took care of that situation right away. Mommas can shoot too! I just can't hit a target, but the sweet pup was tied securely to my front porch ready for their ride to the Animal Shelter later that afternoon.

One day I was doing my quilting or playing piano and minding my own business when the GBI came to my front door asking questions about my neighbor. I was asked to identify a hat he wore often. The next morning after I got my kids off to school, I awoke to a loud noise in the backyard. People were screaming and hollering (that's southern for yelling). By the time I found my eyeglasses, a policeman was straddling atop my neighbor's back. The young man was lying face down in my petunias while the officer placed handcuffs to arrest him right there in my backyard. His crime? He had killed a woman that he had picked up at the bar down the street. He then stuffed her body into the trunk of a car, drove the car to a local park, left it there, and got a ride home like nothing had happened. Only in the movies, so I thought.

Raising kids in the ghetto is much more difficult than raising them in a safe neighborhood. The key to keeping kids safe is to make friends with your neighbors so you know who you can trust. Then, you help look out for one another's kids. You have to know where your kids are all the time and you'd better have a close relationship with them if you want to survive. Praying a lot helps too.

Well, that's enough of remembering for one day. I get to sleep late in the morning. I think I'll go to bed early and get a head start.

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african wild dog facts for kids ๏ปฟAccording to an article released by CBS News called “Fake Service dogs a Growing Problem,” real service dogs help assist a wide variety of individuals, including “people who use power or manual wheelchairs, have balance issues, have various types of autism, need seizure alert or response, need to be alerted to other medical issues like low blood sugar, or have psychiatric disabilities”. Obviously, service dogs help positively affect a massive amount of disabled individuals. What could go wrong?

Fake service dogs, that’s what. CBS News released a shocking report back in December that followed the rising number of “fake” service dogs that were available over the Internet. Actually, more specifically, the “legal” documents, tags, and vests were available to anyone over the Internet, which means any dog can be disguised as a service dog.

But why would the general public spring for such deceit? Having a service dog provides lots of public perks. For example, people with service dogs can cut the line at airports. Or these dogs are allowed in movie theatres, so regular dog owners now have a loophole in which to watch new movie releases with their pooch.

“Just like anyone who breaks the rules. It ruins it for the legitimate needs of people who need their dogs,” says said Anne-Marie Karash, an associate director of the Humane Society of New York. Which is quite unfortunate, seeing as though there is a particularly large demand for service dogs among civilians. However, such complications in medicinal canine acquisition also affects the growing number of combat veterans returning home from war. Service dogs have been proven to help soldiers rehabilitate from mental illnesses like PTSD, and physically aide those who have been through significant physical trauma that perhaps required limb amputation or the need for a wheelchair.

The U.S. Department of Veterans’ Affairs reports that one in five combat veterans develops Post-Traumatic Stress Disorder, or PTSD, either during or shortly after combat. The Mayo Clinic defines PTSD as having three main categories of symptoms: “re-experiencing symptoms,” “avoidance symptoms,” and “hyperarousal symptoms”. These categories can be simplified to describe symptoms of flashbacks and nightmares, feeling of guilt and depression, and insomnia, respectively. With this new insurgence of service dog fraud, however, all of these veterans who are affected by PTSD and other ailments are going to have a more difficult time using legitimate service dogs to maintain their previous standard of living, since businesses and other establishments are becoming more aware of fraudulent dogs and are therefore mistrusting the whole service-dog system.

Where can one find legitimate service dogs? To be honest, it takes some hunting through different resources, whether it be with the help of online search engines to help pinpoint the available organizations who support legitimate service dogs, to smaller print announcements perhaps around one’s neighborhood. Some organizations personally train their service dogs, while others simply teach an individual how to train their dog to become a legitimate service dog. While the latter appears to contribute to the problem of the influx of fake service dogs, Brian Sabatino, a dog trainer, insists that there is one surefire way to tell the difference between a legitimate and fraudulent service dog: “They didn’t go through the training...anything could set them off.”

The VA used to be an excellent resource for distributing and training serviced dogs for veterans, but with the recent scandals regarding the VA and its frequent inadequate care, veterans are advised to seek contact other organizations elsewhere with their inquiries regarding service dogs.

One of those organizations is Operation: I.V, a 501(c)3 non-profit founded in 2012 that helps combat veterans heal from both PTSD as well as traumatic brain injuries. Its founder, Roxann Abrams, is a Gold Star Mother who lost her son SFC Randy Abrams in 2009. Randy took his own life after experiencing a PTSD flashback from his service in Iraq. Randy had undiagnosed PTSD- a common occurrence among combat veterans either due to mistakes made by the medical field or simply the individual’s failure to report such grave symptoms.

As a result of her son’s death, Abrams founded Operation: I.V. so that combat veterans who served in either Iraq or Afghanistan have a place to receive treatment through a specialized “VIP”, or “Veteran Intervention Plan” program. “VIP” offers ten different rehabilitation programs, including hyperbolic oxygen therapy, service dogs, and anxiety reduction therapy. Additionally, veterans may also partake in programs such as job retraining, business mentoring, and educational assistance. Again, while there is no cure for PTSD, the programs provided by Operation: I.V. can drastically improve a veteran’s mental health and overall outlook on life.

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